Granada, the last kingdom Al-Andalus

Granada, the last kingdom Al-Andalus

Granada, the last kingdom Al-Andalus

Centuries of history and the legacies of different cultures have transformed the urban layout of the city of Granada. The events that took place from the late 10th and early 11th  centuries onwards led to a series of dramatic changes in which the region’s capital was moved from Madinat Ilbira to the hill of the Hishn Gharnata, which became the official seat of the Zirid Kingdom founded by Zawi ben Zirí around the year 1013.

The consolidation of the kingdom in subsequent decades with the conquest of the neighbouring coras (territories) and the additional resources obtained by the new irrigation networks enabled the Zirid dynasty to consider building a city with a new layout. It could be argued that Granada only became genuinely urban in the Zirid period, a hypothesis borne out by archaeological excavations and the analysis of surviving structures.

From this point onwards the city began to grow beyond its walls, a process that extended especially in the 14th Century, so creating what would become 15th Century Granada, of which we will be studying the perimeter, city walls and enclosures. This insight into life in Granada in the last years of the Nasrid Dynasty, who turned a blind eye on the events that signalled the end of a flourishing culture, will allow us to better understand what went on within the walls of Madinat Gharnata. A knowledge of some of the buildings (of which unfortunately few traces remain) that witnessed the amazing events of those final years is also an important part of this visit.

Neither should we forget the last years of war, a medium through which to study the leading participants, above all the three Sultans Muley Hacén, el Zagal and Muhammad XII “Boabdil”, about whom doubts still exist today as to whether their actions could have changed the destiny of their lost Kingdom. A tragic end to what had been a brilliant lineage, who in spite of their political ups-and-downs were responsible for the creation of the unforgettable Kingdom of Granada.

The Alhambra, Nasrid palaces

Nasrid Dynasty Al-Ahmar, founder of the Nasrid dynasty, installed himself in the Antigua Alcazaba del Albaicín, drawing attention to the ruins on the hill of the Alhambra. He then decided to initiate its reconstruction and install his court in it, beginning the construction of the Alhambra that we know today.

The Alhambra was a palace, citadel and fortress, residence of the Nasrid sultans and senior officials, court servants and elite soldiers, reaching its full splendor in the second half of the 14th century, coinciding with the sultanate of Yusuf I (1333-1354) and the second reign of Muhammad V (1362-1391).

Granada, capital of the Nasrid kingdom, gradually received Islamic populations due to the advance of the Christian conquest. The city grew, adapting, creating new quarters and expanding its walls practically until being conquered at the end of the 15th century.

Unveiling the Past of Ishbiliya: Exploring Seville’s Landmarks during Al-Andalus

Unveiling the Past of Ishbiliya: Exploring Seville’s Landmarks during Al-Andalus

Embark on a captivating journey through Seville’s past as you explore Ishbiliya, a city that flourished during the era of Al-Andalus. From the grandeur of the Alcázar to the rich history preserved in the Archive of the Indies, every step reveals the profound impact of this bygone era. Follow our suggested itinerary to immerse yourself in the architectural marvels, cultural gems, and enchanting ambiance that make Seville an unforgettable destination for history enthusiasts and curious travelers alike.

The Alcazar of Ishbiliya

Begin your journey by stepping into the breathtaking Alcázar of Ishbiliya, an architectural masterpiece that reflects the fusion of Moorish and Christian influences. This UNESCO World Heritage site boasts intricate geometric patterns, lavish gardens, and exquisite courtyards, transporting you back to the days of Al-Andalus.

The Giralda Tower

Next, marvel at the iconic Giralda Tower, a symbol of Seville’s history. Originally built as a minaret during Al-Andalus, it later became the bell tower of the Seville Cathedral. Ascend its ramped walkway to enjoy panoramic views of the city, while appreciating the artistry of its Islamic architecture.

Seville Cathedral

As the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, it showcases stunning architectural elements and houses the final resting place of Christopher Columbus. Explore its awe-inspiring interiors, adorned with intricate carvings and captivating stained glass windows.

Barrio de Santa Cruz

Wander through the charming streets of Barrio de Santa Cruz, a former Jewish quarter, where you can immerse yourself in the narrow alleys, picturesque plazas, and vibrant patios. The neighborhood’s rich history, dating back to Al-Andalus, provides a delightful blend of culture, cuisine, and local charm.

House of Pilatos

Continue your journey to Casa de Pilatos, a magnificent palace showcasing Mudejar architecture. Inspired by the Alhambra in Granada, this residence encapsulates the elegance of Al-Andalus. Stroll through its lavish gardens, adorned with fountains and lush greenery, and explore the meticulously adorned rooms that reflect the splendor of the past.

Archive of the Indies

End your day by delving into the historical treasures of the Archive of the Indies. Housed within a stunning Renaissance building, it safeguards an extensive collection of documents that chronicle Spain’s exploration and colonization of the New World. Uncover the invaluable records that connect Seville to its role in shaping global history. Step into the captivating realm of Al-Andalus as you explore Seville, or as it was called in ancient times, Ishbiliya. This legendary city, steeped in history and adorned with awe-inspiring landmarks, awaits your discovery. Delve into the grandeur of Al-Andalus through a suggested itinerary for a day visit, where you’ll witness the architectural marvels and cultural gems that shaped this remarkable era.

Seville capital of Al-Andalus in the Almohad Era

Discover the remarkable Almohad era in Seville, when it served as the capital of the Almohad Caliphate. Explore the architectural wonders, cultural achievements, and lasting legacy of this influential Islamic dynasty. Immerse yourself in the rich history of Almohad Seville through captivating landmarks and captivating stories.
Journey back in time to the splendid era of the Almohad Caliphate in Seville. Serving as the capital of this influential Islamic dynasty, Seville flourished under Almohad rule, leaving an indelible mark on its architecture, culture, and legacy. Embark on a fascinating exploration of Seville’s Almohad capital, as we delve into the city’s iconic landmarks and the remarkable achievements of this significant era.

Beyond specific landmarks, the Almohads made significant contributions to Islamic architecture that can be observed throughout Seville. Their innovative use of arches, geometric patterns, and decorative elements influenced subsequent architectural styles in the region. Look for traces of Almohad influence in various religious and secular structures, exemplifying the enduring legacy of their distinctive architectural style.

A good example is one of the most iconic symbols of Seville’s Almohad past is the Giralda Tower, which originally served as the minaret of the Great Mosque during the Almohad era. Standing tall and elegant, this architectural masterpiece showcases the Almohad’s distinctive style with its intricate geometric patterns and ornate design. Climb the tower to enjoy panoramic views of the city and relish in the craftsmanship of this historic gem.

You will marvel at the remnants of Seville’s Almohad fortifications, including sections of the ancient city walls and gates. These defensive structures once enclosed the city, providing protection and showcasing the architectural prowess of the Almohads. Stand in awe as you witness the Almohad craftsmanship in the gateways, such as the Puerta de la Macarena and the Puerta de Jerez, testaments to their strategic and artistic genius.

The Golden Tower, a fortified tower built by the Almohads along the banks of the Guadalquivir River is another city’s landmarks. While its exact purpose during their reign remains uncertain, this iconic structure stands as a symbol of Seville’s rich history. Take a stroll along the riverbank and marvel at this imposing tower, glistening in the sunlight, as it continues to evoke the splendor of Almohad Seville.

Seville stands as a testament to the grandeur and influence of this remarkable Islamic dynasty. The city’s landmarks reveal the architectural brilliance and cultural achievements of the Almohads. Immerse yourself in the rich history of Almohad Seville, as you explore its architectural gems.

Follow the trace of Al-Andalus Heritage in these routes through Spain

Follow the trace of Al-Andalus Heritage in these routes through Spain

Our suggested route explores the heritage, history and culture of al-Andalus, the Islamic Andalusia of the 8th to 15th centuries. Follow these routes to marvel at unique sites like the Alhambra in Granada and the Great Mosque of Cordoba, and visit charming villages far from the usual tourist circuits.

Below, we present four of the routes that make up the Routes of the Al-Andalus Legacy, which are recognized as certified Cultural Routes of the Council of Europe.

TIPS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

The easiest way to follow them is by car. You can also use public transport as there are bus lines that link the different locations along the route. The mild climate of Andalusia means that you can enjoy the trip at any time of year. Spring is, perhaps, the most recommendable time, although each season offers its specific advantages for this experience.

The Route of the Caliphate

Distance:180km

This route is an adventure of the spirit: from Cordoba to Granada, two turning points in history, two unrepeatable moments, two golden centuries.

Cordoba, the zenith, the dazzling light that made the other cities of the West pale in comparison. Granada, the decadent refinement of a whole civilisation on the brink of destruction. And in between, the castles, the cities that began as staging posts or milestones of a turbulent rugged exchange, and then camps and bases to besiege Granada. This route passes through 24 municipalities and is more than just a history lesson. It is also a pleasure for the senses.

Route of the Nasrids

Distance:165km

This route takes you deep into the history of the ancient kingdom of Granada which was ruled by the Nasrid dynasty from the 13th to the 15th centuries.

The remains of fortifications and castles located along the route recall the territorial struggles between Muslims and Christians that took place in the area. It starts in the town of Navas de Tolosa, passes through cities such as Úbeda, Baeza and Jaén, and ends in Granada. The route passes through 27 towns, as well as beautiful natural areas such as Sierra Morena, Sierra Magina and the Sierra de Cazorla y Segura.

The Washington Irving Route

Distance:250km

This route follows the 1829 journey of the American Romantic writer Washington Irving, who was fascinated by the richness and exoticism of the Hispanic-Muslim civilization.

The route runs between Seville and Granada, the two obligatory stops on the Romantic journey that popularised the image of Andalusia in Europe, attracting a multitude of artists, writers, sightseers and all kinds of travellers. The route runs along the main trading route between the southern Christian territories and the Nasrid kingdom of Granada. It unites the capitals of the two traditional regions of Lower and Upper Andalusia; two plains, the Campiña and the Vega, and 23 municipalities with an extraordinary wealth of landscapes and heritage, places, towns and cities rich in historical, legendary and literary allusion.

Route of the Almoravids and Almohads

Distance:400km

From the 11th to the 13th century, the Almoravids and Almohads ruled over the territory of Al-Andalus.

Through this route you will discover its architectural heritage, mainly castles and defensive elements. It spans 400 kilometres from the city of Tarifa and, along two branches, reaching Granada, passing through various towns inland and along the coast of Malaga and Cadiz. Jerez de la Frontera and Ronda are just two of the 29 towns you will visit during the journey.

Choose Andalusia and get soaked the joy of southern Spain

Choose Andalusia and get soaked the joy of southern Spain

Costa de Almeria

The Costa de Almería is well known for its coves and almost virgin-like beaches where you can enjoy the sea in complete tranquillity. This is perhaps the sunniest area in Europe and it enjoys this condition for almost 95% of the year.

The environment of the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park has some of the best examples as well as volcanic landscapes of outstanding beauty.  Some good options from its towns and villages include Mojacar, with its picturesque outline of white houses), the fishing port of Carboneras and Roquetas de Mar for its long beaches.

 

Costa tropical

The Mediterranean continues in Andalusia towards Granada.  Here, more than 70 kilometres of coastline are known as the Tropical Coast because it has over 320 days a year of sun and average temperature of 20 degrees.

Its landscapes are formed with a combination of sea and mountains with rural areas of great interest such as the Sierra Nevada National Park or Las Alpujarras.

Motril, with its interesting old quarter, is the most highly populated town on the coast. Salobreña catches ones attention because its white houses sweep down a hill opposite the sea towards its Moorish castle. Almuñécar boasts large beaches lapped by turquoise water, which are protected by the mountains.

Costa del sol

Málaga and Marbella are the two largest international cities on the Costa del Sol. A paradise for golfers and a delight for their companions. Apart from the wide range of cultural, leisure and retail activities offered by the two large cities on this coastline, you can find squares and streets full of charm in places like Benalmádena, Mijas or Estepona. Pretty hidden gems with narrow streets running between white-washed houses adorned with flowers and small terraces where you can sit, relax and soak up the moment. And the nearest beach is never far away to enjoy the Mediterranean.

Costa de la luz

Next we come to the Costa de la luz, which extends between the provinces of Cádiz and Huelva. Its name (“Coast of Light”) is not by chance and responds to the area’s luminosity. There are over 200 kilometres of coastline in total with some of the very best beaches in Spain.

Cadiz
Cádiz is the country’s most southerly point and where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean. Here you can find pretty towns and villages with sea views at almost any point of the coast between San Roque and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. For example, Vejer de la Frontera is a maze of narrow streets dotted with white houses and fantastic viewpoints over the Mediterranean. Conil de la Frontera is a small, peaceful village located between extensive golden sand beaches. And places like Zahara de los Atunes or Caños de Meca are havens for unwinding.

Doñana National Park Huelvaa Andalusia Spain
Huelva

The long beaches continue in Huelva, with municipalities such as Punta Umbría and Islantilla, which are particularly family-oriented. This area is characterized by its marshlands and the presence of the Doñana National Park.

If you stay in municipalities such as Moguer, Palos de la Frontera or Ayamonte, you will be able to enjoy the extensive, peaceful almost virgin beaches in Torre del Loro, La Bota, Los Enebrales or Cuesta Maneli, among other places.

Doñana National Park

Doñana is one of Europe’s most beautiful and important wetlands. What makes this national park, between the Andalusian provinces of Huelva, Seville, and Cadiz, so special is that in just one day you can see very different ecosystems: marshland, lagoons, pine groves, aloe veras, moving dunes, cliffs, 30 kilometers of unspoiled white beaches.
Flamenco Birds Doñana National Park Southern Spain Andalusia
Flamenco Birds Doñana National Park Southern Spain Andalusia
Flamenco Birds Doñana National Park Southern Spain Andalusia

Flavours of the Andalusian Coast

Good food is an essential ingredient of a few days of relaxation and in the south of Andalusia, you can find some really tasty dishes to enjoy at mealtime. There are famous dishes such as gazpacho or salmorejo (two cold soups featuring tomato as the main ingredient) and essential products like extra virgin olive oil or Iberian cured ham, but as this trip takes in the coast, here we highlight some of the region’s most popular fish and seafood products.

Some star dishes include the prawns from Huelva, pescaíto frito (fried fish), tuna from almadraba, typical above all in Cádiz, the espetos de sardinas (sardine skewers grilled on the beach) particularly popular in Málaga, the seafood soup in Almería (normally prepared with monkfish and shellfish), moraga de sardina (a typical sardine stew from Granada and Málaga) and the salted fish and seafood along the entire coast.

The rise of Al-Andalus in the Iberian Peninsula

The rise of Al-Andalus in the Iberian Peninsula (Hispania)

In the year 711 Muslim forces, following the orders of the governor of Africa, Musa ibn Nusayr, and under the command of Tariq ibn Ziyad, crossed the straits of Gibraltar and defeated the army of the Visigothic king Roderic somewhere inland from Tarifa. In the following year, Musa himself led an army across the straits and took over command of the conquest.

The rapid advance of the Muslims throughout the Iberian Peninsula (modern Spain & Portugal) was impressive. By 720 almost all the territory was under their control, with the exception of a thin strip along the north coast, roughly equivalent to Asturias and Cantabria.

Whether the Muslims intended to stay is not clear, but undoubtedly the large fertile areas they saw were a significant factor in their decision to remain.  In addition, the invasion was a useful means of channeling the energies of the recently conquered and converted Berbers of the Maghreb (Northwest Africa) with the promise of booty, slaves and lands.

Run by governors acting for the Umayyad Caliph in Damascus (Syria), the peninsula’s fortunes were initially tied to the interests of the Middle East. . After the conquest of the peninsula, governors followed thick and fast, the first being Musa’s son, Abd al-Aziz,  soon decapitated in Seville  accused of trying  to usurp power and declare himself ruler.

 

The Arabs brought with them tribal quarrels inherited from the Middle East while the Berbers felt treated as second-class citizens by the Arabs. The Berber grievances were not without cause. When land was confiscated from those who had opposed the invading armies, the Arabs amassed the best property, e.g. along the Guadalquivir, Guadiana and Ebro river valleys, and the fertile coastal areas. The Berbers had to make do with the rest, mainly mountainous areas around Granada, the hostile Duero valley and damp Galicia in the north west, and the Pyrenees in the north east.

A Berber rebellion in 740 resulted in a civil war.

At this moment, the history of Al-Andalus or Muslim Spain witnessed an important event, the arrival of Abd al-Rahman

 

by 750, a rival dynasty, the Abbasids (who claimed descent from the Prophet via his daughter Fátima and his murdered son-in-law Ali), succeeded in overthrowing the Umayyads and shortly after removed the caliphate to Baghdad. The whole process was a bloody affair and the Umayyad royal family decimated in the purge. Only one member, 20-year old Abd al-Rahman, escaped. He made his way across North Africa, eventually arriving in Spain in 756.

Quickly he gathered support from among the pro-Umayyad factions there, and within a few months had deposed the governor of al-Andalus, entrenched himself in Córdoba and declared himself emir. The Umayyads may have lost everything in the Middle East, but under Abd al-Rahman, a new Umayyad dynasty was born in Spain that would largely set its own political independence of the Caliphate of Baghdad.

 

Abd al-Rahman I: Emir of Al-Andalus 756-788

Abd al-Rahman ruled for 32 years, spending much of the time putting down revolts within his realm and consolidating his power. When he arrived in 756, Muslim control had already contracted from the heady days of the invasion, especially in the northwest, thanks to Christian resistance.

Abd al-Rahman’s determination to impose his rule was constantly challenged by these local rulers, and also by Abbasid support from Baghdad. However, he gradually put down revolts one by one, and when the occasion merited it was not above coming to terms with Christian opposition.  By the early 770s, Abd al-Rahman controlled all but the Ebro valley.

In 785 Abd al-Rahman build a great Masjid in Cordoba. It was a large and striking house of worship befitting both his illustrious heritage and his authority in al-Andalus.

The great Cordoba Mosque was a powerful statement to the still considerable Christian community -called the Mozarabs-, that Islam was there to stay. As a tribute to his lost home in Siria, Abd al-Rahman ordered to orientate the qibla wall -that always directs the faithful towards Mecca when praying- facing Damascus. This way when praying, he would symbolically be paying homage to his Umayyad heritage.

Another building was a more personal and nostalgic reminder of Abd al-Rahman’s Syrian past. It was the beautiful palace of Rusafa, built on the hillside overlooking the city (where today stands the Parador of Arruzafa).

T the palace was surrounded by a beautiful garden.  Here Abd al-Rahman spent most of his last years tending his plants and especially his palm trees, planted so it is believed by the emir himself. A short poem, written by Abd al-Rahman is a poignant summary of his nostalgia:

A palm tree stands in the middle of Rusafa,/ Born in the West, far from the land of palms./ I said to it: How like me you are, far away and in exile,/ In long separation from family and friends./ You have sprung from the soil in which you are a stranger;/ And I, like you, am far from home.

Abd al-Rahman died in Cordoba in 788, passing the reins of power to his designated heir, a younger son, Hisham.